Vintage Audemars Piguet Reference 5384. Image credit: Wind Vintage
An Absolutely Phenomenal Audemars Piguet Reference 5384
By Charlie Dunne
Much of the conversations about integrated sports watch bracelets center around the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. AP’s Head of Complications Michael Friedman describes the Royal Oak as “raw streel” which is “hand-finished into a work of art”. Yet the era featured many equally beautiful creations that did not stand the test of time. The reference 5384 deviates from the celebrated model in the fact that it is a dress watch made from noble metal. While many cherish the attribute of “timeless design”, we will take the contrarian vantage point and admire this dated design - one which is unlikely to ever be revisited by a manufacturer! The watch truly warrants more discussion within the vintage watch space, and so we will take a moment to appreciate a less celebrated AP.
The Integrated Bracelet
A few models from the era have been described with the nickname “Cobra”, and the texture across the bracelet certainly has a scale-like aesthetic. Like a reptile, when your fingers graze the bracelet it is smooth to the touch. However, the other direction is aggressive, with a coarse texture. Luckily, the interior section designed with a Milanese weave is very comfortable. The bracelet is firm, and non-malleable, so much so that it belongs on the wrist.
Europa Star1970 | ISSUE #120
Within Europa Star’s Archives, one can find an AP with diamond-set hands and dial which features the same case and bracelet (in smaller dimensions). The watch is also similar to the a reference 8449/313 based on findings from a 1972 Audemars Piguet catalog, in addition to the reference 8439.
The case was made by Favre-Perret SA who at this time was making some of the iconic Ellipse, and Nautilus reference 3700 cases for Patek Philippe (and previously making Vulcain Cricket cases for the European market). It is likely that Favre & Perret was responsible for the head only, while the most interesting aspect is the fully-textured bracelet made by Jean-Pierre Ecoffey. Because of the complexity of these integrated bracelets, oftentimes they were produced by an entirely separate entity. The artisans responsible for these truly made miraculous designs. The result is an unrivaled hybrid between jewelry and horology.
The buckle is stamped with the manufacturer’s initials. The interior features the gold’s purity (18K), the manufacturer’s name and crest, and the bracelet maker’s initials.
Integrated bracelet by Jean-Pierre Ecoffey.
The Movement
The watch is powered by the ultra-thin automatic calibre k2120. The movement is based on the Jaeger-LeCoulre calibre 920. Several iterations were taken on by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. For AP, the movement is in the family calibres 2120, 2121, and 2122.
The 1970s were defined by the style of gold dress watches with interesting bracelets. Think of the perfect timepiece to wear at the disco, and this model is at the top of the list. One only needs to look at the manufacturer’s catalog or trade shows to see this aesthetic was all the rage. Similar models like the reference 5279 featured textured cases and bracelets, albeit detachable.
Audemars Piguet advertisement 1967. Image credit: www.hifi-archiv.info
An Audemars Piguet display from the early 1970s. Image credit New York Times / Audemars Piguet.
The tonneau-shaped case is not bulky. The thin case and incredible dimensions allow for it to be worn easily on the wrist. The only issue is the length of the bracelet. Once it is cut, there is no coming back. For anyone interested in purchasing these watches, it is paramount to try them on or understand the bracelet’s length.
The dial is a vertically-brushed, slate-grey canvas. The diamond-hour markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 complements the white-gold case giving a very elegant look to the timepiece. Only under a high-resolution camera or loupe you can notice the slightest discoloration has developed on the remaining applied-baton markers. Most notably, the dial is double-signed featuring the Swiss retailer Meister. Below, the “Automatic” text deviates from the traditional font for the brand and retailer. Similar automatic scripts can be seen on models such as the Longines Conquest.
While perhaps alienating, the Audemars Piguet reference 5384 speaks to a very select style. The watch is for the discerning collector that moves to the beat of their own drum. Certain watches are “timeless”, whereas this watch encapsulates an era of glamour.
Vintage Audemars Piguet Reference 5384. Image credit: Wind Vintage