Patek Philippe Reference 2499J

Perhaps the biggest takeaway I can share is that while The Beyer Museum collection is not as vast as other horological museums, it is quite apparent the focus on condition is what dictates the curation. In many instances, it appears that timepieces on view are new old stock, or even models which were ordered by the retailer only to be displayed decades later. One example that comes to mind is the Patek Philippe reference 2499J. Upon first impression, the stepped case/lugs are so defined that one could almost miss the fact the dial is double-signed Beyer. The watch truly exemplifies the term “museum-grade” (a term coined by YouTube watch personality and Delray Watch Supply co-founder John Pietrasz).

Patek Philippe & Cie World Time Desk Clock

Visiting the Patek Philipe Museum in late 2021 allowed me to appreciate the incredible Patek Philippe reference 828 HU. It won’t surprise many when I say the highlight of the Beyer Museum was world time Cottier desk clock. While it the reference 828 looks a bit more like the final product, it is worth pointing out that the Beyer Museum’s example precedes the Patek Museum’s by 14 years! I have a certain fondness for the “long signature” (Patek, Philippe & Co.), and even more romantic is the fact that this one is arched. Occasionally, arched long P.P.C. signatures can be found in wristwatches, but in the case of this clock, it just is a magical anecdote for watch nerds to appreciate. This particular clock features the early Cottier-hour hand, which differs from the Lyre hand found in the only other publicly known example.

One detail I was unaware of and would later learn while reading the book ‘Antike Uhren: Neuerwerbungen’, a publication which is available for purchase at the museum, was that it was a striking clock! The book reveals the clock is powered by an “handmade 8-day-movement by Louis Cottier, with two barrels on one shaft. The Grande-Sonnerie strike-train can be enabled/disabled by a lever situated on the side of the case”.

Perhaps a more subtle, yet equally jaw-dropping, detail to note is the the hand-engraved sun. Experts have alluded to the belief that in early Heure Universelle pocket watches the sun and moon were in fact hand engraved by Louis Cottier! Being that this is among the same period as those coveted world-time models, these markers would certainly maintain the same provenance. While more information exists on the early Cottier HU clocks, it is not my right to publish further details.

While there are many people who say ‘watches are not art”, I must emphatically disagree when looking at a timepiece like this. Leaving aside the world-time mechanism, the clock was a canvas to the unrecognized enamelist who dedicated years of their life in the pursuit of these creations. Dismissing this masterpiece outright does not sit right with me. It could easily reside amongst other works in any art institute or museum and be as moving as a painting or sculpture to those that stop to admire it. While I have heard respectable counterarguments, the most compelling from the great Kari Voutillanen who cited the difference between artists and artisans, I stand firm on the “watchmaking is art” opinion after witnessing this clock.

Vacheron Constantin Coin Watch

Hopefully by now my appreciation for coin-form timepieces is apparent. While I have openly called for Patek Philippe to curate a section showcasing their coin watches, I was very happy to encounter being one example being repaired during my visit to the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. While in browsing the timepieces in Zürich, I was pleasantly surprised to see one Vacheron Constantin coin watch, which I should mention, are particularly rare. This specific example dates to 1941 and is quite interesting in that it is not only made from a 100 Swiss Franc coin but also the fact it is engraved inscription on the interior. The dial appears to be, in my opinion, reprinted. It resembles similar work to many Cartier coin watches which were restored during the 1980s and 1990s. Nevertheless, the exterior coin appears to be in very good form with little wear to the case.

Patek Philippe “New World” Reference 605 HU DE

The 605 HU DE is certainly one of the ultimate pocket watches when it comes to Patek Philippe. “While they have always been admired, it is only recently that the timepieces are achieving results that reflect an appreciation of fine art” says Eric Wind when referencing a recent example that sold for over $2,000,000 at Christie’s Hong Kong that depicted each continent in enamel.

We were met at the museum by a new friend of ours Michael. He wore his recent acquisition, a Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675 with “Fuchsia” bezel. He also brought another timepiece, a Rolex Date reference 1500.

Read the follow up article: Inside The Beyer Museum (Uhrenmuseum Beyer): Part 2