Inside The Beyer Museum (Uhrenmuseum Beyer): Part 2
Hamilton Electric Wristwatches
Following up to part 1 at The Beyer Clock and Watch Museum, it would have been impossible to choose only a select few worthy of highlighting. Among the standouts not previously covered were a pair of American wristwatches by Hamilton. The two timepieces were models known as the Ventura I, an iconic Electric watch worn by Elvis Presley during the 1961 film ‘Blue Hawaii’. This asymmetrical model epitomizes the era it was introduced through its avant-garde look.
Elvis Presley & Howard McNear ~ Blue Hawaii, 1961 Image credit: goldenageestate.tumblr.com
Elvis Presley wearing his Hamilton Ventura on the set of Blue Hawaii circa 1961. Image credit: Elvis1Aaron (Pinterest).
Neha S. Bajpai would describe these models in her epic 2021 ‘Retrospective on Shaped Watches’, and how Arbib’s designs were amongst the most aggressive styles during the 1950s which are daring enough to be discussed alongside those from Gilbert Albert.
“While Gilbert Albert is the most obvious name associated with asymmetrical designs from the 1950s, another designer who contributed some really outlandish watch designs in that era was Richard Arbib. An armaments specialist inspired by military aviation and the ‘50s race to space, Arbib was the man behind Hamilton’s eccentric Electric watches.”
The two Hamiltons are among the most exceptional in their condition that I have come across thus far. Both models are absolutely beautiful with their stepped-hooded lugs remaining unpolished. The cases were made by Schwab & Wuischpard, a New York based casemanufacturer which was co-founded by the Swiss born immigrant Jean M. Wuischpard and Max Eugene Schwab in 1936. Wuischpard would transition careers in 1965 as Hamilton’s product manager. One truly appreciates the fact these remain on display for the public to admire some of the most important American timepieces ever created.
Image credit: Record-Journal (Sep. 23, 1965)
Image credit: Florida Today (May 10, 2006)
Egyptian Clepsydra
Audemars Piguet pocket watch retailed by Black Starr & Frost
One timepiece that was particularly interesting was a 1928 pocket watch by Audemars Piguet decorated on both sides with cloisonné enamel. Within the book ‘Treasures from the Beyer Zürich Collection’ the numerals are cited as being Turkish and that the crown is an “octagonal onyx stone”. Clearer images of both sides can be seen in the publication ‘Antike Uhren: Neuerwerbungen’. The watch was destined for the Americas and features two Eastern scenes. To those who recognize the retailer Black Starr & Gorham, the companies are one in the same. In 1929, BS&F would be aqcuired by Gorham Inc. (as well as Chicago based retailer Spaulding & Co.
Chicago Tribune (May 1, 1929).
The Palm Beach Post (Nov. 7, 1929).
Image credit: Die Tat, 12 November 1971
Image credit: Neue Zürcher Nachrichten (October 29, 1963)
Image credit: FAN - L'Express, 12 May 1972
PLACE GIRARDET, THE BATTLE OF QUARTZ WAS WON THANKS TO EVERYONE’S EFFORTS TO ADAPT…
In this jungle of quartz where some: shout louder than they have a voice, Girard Perregaux follows its merry way. Willingly disdaining the beaten track where, under its soles, one finds the footprints of others, in short, as trampled as Optel carpets, the Chaux-de-Fonnière company has created a place for itself in the watch industry. All envy him. And on Tuesday, during the general meeting, President Virchaux was thus able to recall that Girard-Pcrregaux had very early broken the traditions which obliged a watch factory to use deliveries of standard parts obtained from the same suppliers, all attached to the ASUAG... This is how Girard-Perregaux has had special calibres for a long time, how it has perfected original devices for automatic winding and how it has innovated with an escapement at 36.00(1 alternations, baptized " high frequency”, and a source from which many subsequently came to drink. The quartz watch is another example of this permanent search for originality and quality. development. But they could be overcome and since January mass production has started. By the end of this year, a few thousand pieces should thus be manufactured: every month. To win this quartz battle, I required new premises, complicated machines and tools. Above all, it was necessary to retrain all the personnel: — The worker, explained Mr. Virchaux, who only yesterday crimped rubies today welds microscopic copper wires with ultrasound. Another who assembles the lever escapement now assembles the smallest electric motors in the world.
QUARTZ FOR ALL PURSES.
Result: of all watch manufacturers, Girard-Perregaux is the one that delivers the most quartz watches. Thousands of pieces have already been delivered to the United States where the distributors of Girard-Perregaux Corp., the new face of J.-R. Graef Inc. In Italy, visitors to the Milan Fair were able, like those in Basel, to see these which were launched in Switzerland near Beyer, in its windows on Bahnhofstrasse. The GP350 electronic movement is dressed according to the customer's needs and availability. There are around fifteen variants: with a yellow gold case and bracelet for big budgets, but also in gold plated and a leather strap for those who only have five hundred-franc notes and a little change. Girard-Perregaux is now studying a quartz caliber for women. In fact, the _jens of the place Girardet had seen wide when they designed their circuits and their boxes and the movement, very comfortable in its shell, lends itself all the better to miniaturization. A unique caliber, smaller than the ordinary men's watch but harmoniously fitting a female wrist, could therefore be launched later. This research is also part of the policy of Girard-Perregaux, which devotes all its attention to performance by constantly monitoring costs and their impact on prices.
THE ESSENTIAL COMPETITIONS OF THE OBSERVATORY
In presenting the management report for the past financial year, Mr. J-E. Friedrich recalled the slight increase in turnover and the even clearer advance: 1st Consul S. To. He also broke a spear in favor of chronometric competitions. The eminently useful role of the Neuchâtel Observatory was once again proven when we had our first quartz watches scientifically checked. The top lot, a group of four pieces, achieved the number :1c ranking N1.0 in dynamic tests where the record held by mechanical watches was N 8.0. This comparison clearly demonstrates the technological leap that has been made. But we regret that we can no longer speak of the "Competition for wristwatches" at the Neuchâtel Observatory since our competitors have not deemed it useful to measure themselves in peaceful and instructive trials, both for the managers of the companies and for their shareholders and their customers.
THE ESSENTIAL COMPETITIONS OF THE OBSERVATORY
In presenting the management report for the past financial year, Mr. J-E. Friedrich recalled the slight increase in turnover and the even clearer advance: 1st Consul S. To. He also broke a spear in favor of chronometric competitions. The eminently useful role of the Neuchâtel Observatory was once again proven when we had our first quartz watches scientifically checked. The top lot, a group of four pieces, achieved the number :1c ranking N1.0 in dynamic tests where the record held by mechanical watches was N 8.0. This comparison clearly demonstrates the technological leap that has been made. But we regret that we can no longer speak of the "Competition for wristwatches" at the Neuchâtel Observatory since our competitors have not deemed it useful to measure themselves in peaceful and instructive trials, both for the managers of the companies and for their shareholders and their customers.
And Mr. Friedrich continued: — Our company was the only one to take part in time trials which have played a leading role for more than a century in the technical progress of our industry. We would like to thank here the Council of State which, by supporting an observatory which has made itself known internationally, gives industry and consumers a neutral means. ¦ scientific and effective to appreciate the value of the timepieces entered in the competition. Opening the meeting, Mr. Charles Virchaux also mentioned the fire that broke out in the building where the electronic parts of the “G.-P. Quartz”. The causes ? A water heater. Thanks to the prompt intervention of the firefighters who covered the machines with plastic sheeting, the damage was insignificant. Of the two workshops affected, one was able to resume work the very next day, the other the day after. As for the “solidstate”, Girard-Perregaux thinks about it but waits to be fixed on the lifespan of: liquid crystals. Will a bear go there? Perhaps, Quality requirements alone will decide.
Advertisement showing people looking into the windows of Beyer. Image credit: Neue Zürcher Nachrichten (November 26, 1963).
Georg Kostenbader Table Clock with Astrolabe
Among the most incredible clocks were complicated 16th century timepieces, a most impressive astrolabe made by Georg Kostenbader. Of the little research that can be traced to him, it appears the clockmaker was based in Staussburg, which along with the German city of Ausburg, were two capitals for complicated table clocks such as these. The columns take inspiration from Ancient Greek/Roman architecture incorporating the Corinthian order along the structures four corners. Additionally, the clock is decorated with engraved scenes, which although are unclear, appear to have a religious theme. Similar examples by Kostenbader can be seen in the Gaasbeek Castle (also illustrated here and here).
Almost hidden in plain sight was a Cartier pocket watch dating to circa 1929 cased within a crystal exterior. The timepiece was an exquisite example that easily outranks the subpar Cartier-London wristwatches which have commanded outrageous premiums at auction over the past two years. This example features an ornate guilloche dial which is met with a brushed minute track. Also worth highlighting is the beautiful hour ring which appears to be made from ivory if I were to attempt to classify the material. The movement is stated to be by way of Le Sentier based Cartier collaborators (LeCoultre). As if the initial impression wasn’t enough, upon looking at the profile to gauge the thickness, I uncovered the channel set diamond side. Hopefully to those entranced by the inferior models which make headlines, this Parisian pocket watch will galvanize you to look beyond the hype.
