Watch Spotting: A Killer Zodiac SeaWolf, A Gorgeous GP Compax and an All-American LeCoultre Chronograph
By Charlie Dunne
Last week was pretty typical. Nothing was happening in my neck of the woods, leading me to believe it would be another lazy weekend surfing the internet for watches I can’t afford. However, I learned that my buddy Max had a last minute trip planned to my home state of Florida. Upon discovering he would be traveling from Chicago for a few days in the Sunshine State, I decided it would be a wonderful opportunity to take our friendship to the next level by hanging out in real life. I took a small road trip south to get to know Max beyond the Clubhouse chats and to see some of his watches.
Zodiac Seawolf Reference 722-946
You may very well recognize this Zodiac Seawolf reference 722-946 from Max’s recent Rescapement article. However when I saw it in person, I couldn’t resist the opportunity to take a few flicks while gawking at the killer dive watch. Between the vibrant colors, perfect typeface, and 36mm case, I’m beginning to think there is hope for me in the future when it comes to sports watches.
The rivet bracelet had a crisp feel and [in my humble opinion] elevated the watch far beyond what any tropic strap could do for the timepiece. Muting the grey acrylic bezel, the steel-on-steel action really allows the orange numerals and hash marks to take center stage. The “Swiss T 25” presented at 6 o’clock indicates that the tritium emitted 925 MBq (25 mCi) or higher upon leaving the Le Locle factory all those years ago.
Enicar Sherpa Jet
A collection is never complete without a dual crown watch and few models are as cool as the Enicar Sherpa Jet. Compared to its 40mm big brother, the Sherpa Super Jet, the Super Jet is spectacularly proportioned at 36mm. Its black and yellow 24-hour rotating wheel not only provides a secondary time zone, but also a nice accent to match the custard luminous material on the dial and hands. If the utility based watch wasn’t sporty enough, a loud red and black “roulette” hand is thrown into the mix just for good measure. Admiring it right above the granite chess board allowed for a deeper appreciation of the grainy surface of the dial.
If you feel inclined to dive into the world of vintage Enicar, there is no better gift you can give yourself than getting a copy of ‘Time For a Change: Discovering Vintage Enicar’ by Martijn van der Ven. The book was released just over two years back, and it is an essential addition to any watch lover’s library.
Girard-Perregaux Compax
A fantastic chronograph was unveiled at the coffee shop (Subculture Coffee Co for those who are looking for the bomb spots out in Palm Beach). While the watch is cool on its own, what really sets it apart is its story. The watch belonged to Max’s grandfather and it was passed on to Max a few years ago. Max explained that his grandfather purchased the watch as he entered the U.S. Army Corp. of Engineers in World War II. Even more interesting is that his grandfather wore the watch as he worked with the team that would go on to design the ignition system of the atomic bomb. Max’s Grandfather wore the watch for many years, which was evident when he had inherited the watch as the hour and minute hands lost their lume, and the chronograph seconds hand had fallen off the center post. Max had the watch serviced and after 6 months with the watchmaker, he got the watch back to finally enjoy it.
Image credit: Wind Vintage
Image credit: Wind Vintage
I was particularly fond of the grooved case profile and flared lugs that protrude from the bezel. The watch is operated by the UG calibre 281, and upon a quick skim through Sala’s Universal book, I didn’t happen to notice the same interesting case featured.
I must certainly say that the relumed hands were executed in a very tasteful fashion. Kite hands tend to be a bit trickier to relume because of their width and the lack of a steel intersection to hold the luminous material in place. The aesthetic pairs quite well with the supple strap from Chicago based Veblenist. Additionally, the blued steel hands strongly compliment the tachymeter demarcations. I’d venture to say a deep navy version of the strap would look just as good.
LeCoultre Chronograph Reference 224115
Being that I am a certified LeCoultre loverboy, Max’s reference 224115 was an absolute stunner. Not only was it a rare Breguet numeral variant, it featured a really crisp unpolished 35mm case . The angular lugs were an understated aspect to the piece which certainly could be overlooked while focusing on the dial.
Image credit: Wind Vintage
1940s Universal Genève advertisement illustrated by Charles Lemmel. Image credit: UoLHS
The chronograph is powered by a Universal Genève calibre 285. Stamped onto the movement is the import code VXN denoting Vacheron & Constantin, LeCoultre. Additionally, the same model by Universal Genève (a reference 22498) can be seen within a 1940s advertisement that was illustrated by Charles Lemmel.
Quite possibly the best attribute of the watch is the Breguet numerals. Rarely do you get such a sophisticated style in the more sober LeCoultre chronographs from the WW2 era. One can’t help but associate the American market’s affinity for Breguet numeral Patek Philippe chronos of the same period. In a sense, the LeCoultre name is much more fun and approachable.
Image credit: Wind Vintage
Universal Genève advertisement featuring reference 22498. Image credit: Ad Patina
