Which Vintage Watch Do You Hope To Find in 2023?

By Charlie Dunne

As I began to reach out to collectors asking “which vintage watch do you hope to find/add to your collection in 2023?”, nearly each person would respond with concern that by answering they would dreadfully invite more competition to their horological pursuits. Others weren’t interested in being limited to strictly vintage. I won’t lie, I respect the uncompromising responses from those contributors. Additionally, I know some of these people quite well, and I’m almost sure that some of them may have thrown out an answer serving as misdirection to the half a dozen readers of this blog. [Too self deprecating? Yeah, tell a friend to sign up for my emails.]

Special thanks to everyone who graciously contributed, and I hope this will become an annual tradition on the website.

Neha S. Bajpai (@nehasbajpai / Media Director of Wristcheck)

‘I have never been as mesmerised by Patek Philippe’s modern watches as I’ve been with their asymmetrical timepieces from the 1960s — particularly the Gilbert Albert designed pocket watches from the Ricochet collection. I would love to strut around with the gorgeous Ref 788 in yellow gold, bestowed with a bark-finished dial, black enamel baton hands and a Geneva seal movement. Can’t imagine anything more stylish and enticing than this mid-century gem.”

Nick Federowicz (Ad Patina)

“I’m a vintage Rolex lover - and a sucker for examples that come directly from original owners or a family member. With this being said, for years I’ve been dreaming of an old Rolex Explorer reference 1016 coming into my life, particularly one with great provenance. We’ll see what happens in 2023!”

Mitch Katz (@mitchkatz7)

“Barely a day goes by that I don’t see a watch that I have to have. Most of the time by the next morning I am onto something else. The one that I keep coming back to is the Carrera 2447 Yachting. Every time I see a photo of one, my heart speeds up and I know that eventually, I will find one. Hopefully 2023 will be the year.”

Tony Traina (@tony_traina / Rescapement)

“For me, it’s usually not a specific watch or reference (though watch gods, if you’re reading this, I wouldn’t mind an AP QP 5548). “Collecting” is really just narrative, stories we tell ourselves to convince us these little things are worth something. So sure, I love the story of the ultra-thin AP QP, Jaqueline Dimier, and its role in moving mechanical watchmaking past the quartz crisis, but — and It’s corny — the more I’ve been around, the more I want watches that have a connection to a person, place, or moment in time that feels specific or meaningful to me.”

Roman (@timesromanau)

“For me vintage watches usually hold the same level of interest as old dentures or antique veterinary implements - cursory perusal followed by mild disquiet at the evident ravages of time or accumulated gunk (sorry the “patina”!)

Usually I am into modern watches only, however, there is one vintage (or “neo vintage” for us youngsters) watch I would love to own one day - Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Ref 2870 from 1986.

Although the aesthetics of the watch exhibit all the misplaced brashness of the 1980s, this piece is truly sensational, being the first serially-produced automatic tourbillon wristwatch ever made. Featuring a tourbillon cage made of titanium (first use of material for that purpose) and visible through the dial; crown on the back (only used for hand setting and not winding), and a “hammer” winding system (instead of regular spinning rotor).

The watch also has no top plate, with the jewels set right into the caseback to ensure thickness is mind-boggling 4.8mm thin.

Have i mentioned this was made in 1986 but it still holds the record as the lightest tourbillon ever (0.134g in case you need to weight it for international shipping)!

Enough said. This AP is a historically significant marvel which is why even a vintage watch philistine like me really wants on”

Stephen Ringer

“It would probably be a Rolex GMT-Master Reference 6542 with the bakelite bezel!”

AJ Michalka

“I’d love to find a vintage Vacheron Constantin with a double-signed dial by Cartier!”

Elias Marte (@staycrispymyfriends)

"It would have to be a Piaget Protocole (stone dial) or LeCoultre Duoplan - in yellow Gold of course!"

Erik Gustafson (Hairspring)

“The watch I most want to find in 2023 is quite personal. I just completed a project car that I’ve been working on in my spare time, which is scarce these days, for a few years. It’s bright yellow. In characteristic style, I look for any excuse to acquire an interesting watch and in this case it happens to match perfectly. In the early-mid 90s, AP had some really experimental mid-sized Royal Oaks. There are a handful of non-complicated 14790ST out there with a bright yellow dial, often called the “citrus” or “lemon” dial. A lesser-known sibling of the Yves Klein. I’ve only seen one for sale ever, and none in the time I’ve been looking. That is the watch. But that’s neo-vintage and, as this is Strictly Vintage Watches, I’ll throw an extra true vintage pick in here that I’ve also been after. If anyone has a royal blue (non-lapis) E855 Memovox, get in touch.”

Amon Rosenzweig (@amon_r)

“Watches go hand in hand with travel and adventures. One watch that encapsulates this ideology wholeheartedly is the Rolex GMT- Master. Recently I have been enamored with the GMT-Master 1675. What specifically draws me to these watches are the varied hues and patina on the aged bezels. I hope to find one in 2023 and take it with me on my next trip.”

Herman @hurmen

“I stopped chasing specific watches for quite a while. These days I wait and see what comes along. I’ll consider any vintage watch with an automatic movement and at least a date complication. As long as I can afford it and puts a smile on my face.”

Roni Madhvani (@roni_m_29)

“I think it would be the super rare luminous [Patek Philippe reference] 3417, but I know I would never be able to afford it!”

Scott Sawaya (@10thwatch )

“2022 was an awesome year for my collection! I had the opportunity to add a reference 79090 Tudor submariner from the early 1990s and also the Tudor “small block” chronograph reference 79280 that I’ve been lusting after for several years. In 2023 I want to get back to regate timers and specifically, I’d love to find a Heuer Regatta olive reference 134.602 or even the grey PVD reference 134.603. The orange and blue countdown windows are brilliant against that olive case! It’s a beast of a watch that rarely shows up on original bracelet but I’m hopeful I can find one in 2023.”

Eric Wind (Wind Vintage)

“I would say 2022 for me was defined by Charlie Dunne joining the Wind Vintage team. I was honestly most excited about helping him acquire his first Rolex - a sick and unpolished Oyster Perpetual reference 1018 - and finally getting an insane Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox reference E 875 (after wearing a rather tired example of the E 855 when I first met him). For 2023, I am most excited to see what Charlie adds to his collection next, even more than any watch I might add to my own collection!”

Josh Hendizadeh (@tropicalpatina)

“The watch I’m hunting for this year (and probably next) would be a 37mm JLC in yellow Gold similar to your reference 2983, I would love to find it in gold, but would settle for steel!”

Kevin O’Dell

“You know with vintage watches the most exciting thing is something I’ve never seen before or didn’t even know existed. It doesn’t even have to be an unknown model but maybe even a brand or movement I’m familiar with but with a dial or case I’ve never seen before. I get really intrigued by this stuff and want to own it not only to add to my collection but study inside and out. So often times I don’t know what vintage watch I want until I find it or see it for the first time.

To be honest what I’ve really hoped for many years is for Laurent Ferrier to make a vintage sized watch! I really love that brand…everything that they do. I love their cases, I love their crowns, I love their dials, I love their movements…everything about that brand! I just wish they would make a more traditional size watch to match their classic designs. So yeah that’s it: a 35-36mm Laurent Ferrier Classic would be my big hope for 2023.”

Troy McHenry (@thegrumpycollector)

“For me, the watch I hope to find a way into my collection in 2023 is probably something by Paul Gerber. I've been quasi obsessed with his MIH watch, which involved him taking a Valjoux 7750 movement and turning it into a semi-annual calendar by only adding 9 additional parts! His newer watches that feature his patented triple rotor design is something you'll never forget once you see it.”

Perth Ophaswongse (@edinburghtimepieces)

“To be honest I’ve been feeling a bit jaded with watches, especially modern independents, which is my main area of interest. When it comes to vintage, I’m absolutely not actively looking to find things, but rather in looking to be inspired by a watch that’s going to rekindle the kind of childlike excitement which I’m currently not feeling.”

Max Braun (@mrbwatches)

“I would love to find a Carrera with a double signed dial- either retailer signed or an individual’s name.”

Marius (@cozmopak)

“I aspire to own a first series Patek 3417 eventually, but whether 2023 will be my lucky year, only Charlie Dunne and Eric Wind know. I’m pretty sure Eric is holding back on me since I told him I’d stop collecting if he found me a nice example. Otherwise, I would love a yellow gold 2526 on the original bracelet, but would settle for a great example on a strap. And finally, if all else fails, a beautiful example of a Universal Geneve Tricompax.”

Christian Zeron (Theo & Harris)

“I’d love to find something of high quality from a lesser known manufacturer, like Goldberger’s watches by Leroy & Cie. Something that could be signed by a premier house, but isn’t.”

Richard Lopez (@thetimekeeper247)

“I hope to find an Ultraman for myself in 2023 or the IWC Ref. 3521 - the original Gérald Genta Ingenieur!”

J.J. Owens (@jessicajjos)

“My favorite vintage watch is a double signed Coca Cola ref 1005. I have always been incredibly interested in the rare Rolex double signed dials, but not exactly the more known…the Coca Cola dial is irreverent yet still incredibly wearable, which could easily describe my collection and would be a great addition.”

Owen Lawton (OxWatch)

“I end 2022 with a variety of interests in brands and styles of watches. I still feel at an early stage of collecting and learning, but I have a newfound curiosity for Calatrava watches from companies such as IWC, Longines and Movado, particularly with appliqué dials. I hope that my fondness of 1920-50s pocket watches continues and that I find the chance to shoot these as they would present a new creative challenge in my photography.”

Auro Montanari (@Goldberger)

In 2023, I would like to find a perfect example of stainless steel Patek chronograph, ref. 1463 with unmolested dial and not polished case.”

Logan Baker (@watchesbylogan)

“I was fortunate enough to add a number of watches to my collection over the past year from brands I’ve long admired. A Grand Seiko, an Oak & Oscar, an Omega, and a Zenith all ended up in my watch box over the course of 2022 after years of deliberation and penny pinching. So am I feeling content with it all? A bit, but the eye always wanders… and I feel like my collection is currently missing a vintage Heuer chronograph!

I wouldn’t say no to a crisp Carrera 2447N or Autavia 1163V, but the Heuer chronographs I continue to find myself drawn to come from the oddball era of Valjoux 7750-powered Heuer chronographs from the late 1970s and early ‘80s. The Heuer Pasadena and Daytona (yes, really) may capture the imagination of some, but it’s the Heuer Kentucky that continues to call my name.

The Kentucky represents a transitional period at Heuer, as the Swiss maker moved away from the legendary Chronomatic caliber and adopted the Valjoux 7750 for a whole new generation of automatic chronographs. Although it’s forgotten by many, the Kentucky is a watch that’s hard to forget once you’ve seen it, with its integrated bracelet and offbeat horseshoe-shaped case. Jack Heuer himself has called the Kentucky case “one of the nicest” that the Heuer company ever designed. I’m waiting for the right example – at the right price – to come across my path, but the example I dream about the most comes in a solid steel package with a dark blue dial and clean white accents (ref. 750.703B). Sure, it’s a bit excessive, but I’m cool with that – I think we could all stand to be a little bit “extra” in 2023.”